![\"(Lined](\"https:\/\/cubcadetman.com\/cc\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/09\/PTO-pic-1.jpg\")
<\/a>(Lined up hole)<\/p><\/div>\n
If you forget to do this (I do that a lot) use a pry bar to pry on the button in the center of the pto to release the pressure to allow you to rotate the pulley. A couple of times I\u2019ve placed a v-belt around the motor generator bracket and placed one end of the pry bar in the other end of the v-belt to get leverage.<\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n Removing the PTO is not usually a difficult task but I always plan for the worst. I begin by removing the hood, grill screen and grill housing. It\u2019s only about a 5 minute job. It\u2019s probably not usually necessary, but it\u2019s a lot less frustrating if you run into problems if you\u2019ve already removed everything to make the job easier. And, with the extra room, you\u2019re a lot more apt to do the job correctly. I won\u2019t go through the steps here, since this procedure varies from series to series. (Look in the section on Clutch Removal and Repair for older model Cub Cadets for this procedure.)\u00a0 I do always use anti-seize when replacing the 4 bolts that hold the front grill housing in place. You\u2019ll be glad you did when doing any future work on the tractor.<\/p>\n (Click on Image to Enlarge)<\/p><\/div>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n The front pulley is \u201csupposed\u201d to be held on by a ball bearing and six setscrews. I say supposed to be because in a lot of cases a previous owner will have only replaced three of the setscrews \u2013 one per hole.<\/p>\n If what\u2019s supposed to be there is there, the outer set \u201clocks\u201d the inner setscrews in place. The inner set crew will have a pointed end to wedge behind the ball bearing that the pto clutch rides on.\u00a0 The<\/p>\n bottom picture on the right side is a picture of the back of a PTO that has been removed.\u00a0 You can see how the point of the setscrew locks the PTO on the bearing.\u00a0 The left picture is supposed to illustrate the same thing, but it’s hard to see with the coarse resolution of the picture.<\/p>\n Removing the setscrews as a rule is the most frustrating and time consuming part of the process. A lot of times they\u2019ll be dirt, mud dobber nests, rust, grease, paint, etc. that has accumulated in the setscrew holes over time. Be sure to clean all this stuff out of the hole and threads and, especially the stuff that\u2019s located in the end of the setscrew. I always use an ice pick to make sure the \u201chex\u201d hole in the end of the setscrew is completely clean. These set screw are generally hard to break loose, and you want as much of the Allen wrench engaged in the setscrew as possible. After getting all the \u201cgunk\u201d out of the holes, I fill the hole with PBlaster\u00a0 and let it soak 24 hours. You can soak two holes at a time. After letting two holes soak 24 hours, rotate the pto 120 degrees and fill the third hole with PBlaster. \u00a0I generally put PBlaster in the third hole as well as one that\u2019s previously been soaked. You can\u2019t over soak them!!!<\/p>\n After allowing all the set screws to soak for at least 24 hours, it\u2019s time to remove (or at least try to remove) the setscrews. I buy 1\/8\u201d Allen wrenches ten at a time and always start with a new Allen wrench. If you reuse them the corners start to become rounded and they have a tendency to rotate in the hole. I find it much easier to place the long section of the Allen wrench in the hole and use a small adjustable wrench to apply torque to the small end. The small adjustable wrench gives you a better \u201cfeel\u201d for how much torque you\u2019re applying to the Allen wrench.<\/span><\/p>\n Hopefully, this procedure will remove all the setscrews. The real problem comes when the Allen wrench rotates in one of the setscrews rather then rotating the setscrew.\u00a0\u00a0 If this happens, you\u2019ll have to drill out the setscrew. Drilling through a setscrew works best with a cobalt bit, lots of cutting fluid and a real, real slow drill speed. Pour a bunch of cutting fluid down the hole with the rounded setscrew and start drilling with a 1\/8\u201d cobalt bit. I can\u2019t overemphasize that the drill has to rotate really, really slowly. A fast rotation will cause the drill to overheat and dull. With ample cutting fluid, a good cobalt bit and a slow speed you\u2019ll find that it\u2019s like drilling mild steel. A lot of times the 1\/8\u201d bit is sufficient to remove the \u201ctip\u201d of the inner setscrew and allow for removal of the pto clutch. However, I usually follow up with a 3\/16\u201d cobalt bit to make sure all the tip is gone. This time you can\u2019t fill the hole with cutting fluid, but again, use a really slow speed.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Be careful when you drill all the way through the inner setscrew.\u00a0\u00a0 Remember that the centerline of the setscrew is just a little behind the outer race of a ball bearing. It\u2019s a good place to snap off the end of a bit.\u00a0 And, always, always use a good coating of antisieze when replacing these set screws.\u00a0 It will make any future repairs a lot easier!!!<\/span><\/p>\n With the setscrews removed it\u2019s time to remove the pto clutch from the ball bearing. Sometimes if you\u2019re lucky you can just wiggle it off or use a plastic mallet for some friendly persuasion. More times then not, however, it won\u2019t come that easily. Some people have reported success by fastening one end of chain around the pulley and whipping the chain. I like a more controlled approach then that, but it does require the use of a large bearing separator which most people don\u2019t own and would have to rent. Begin by placing the bearing puller in the v-belt grooves.<\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n Screw a 3\/8\u201d bolt into a 3\/8\u201d coupler nut and place it behind one corner of the bearing separator. The length of the bolt varies by engine and where you place it.\u00a0\u00a0 Ideally, you\u2019ll have the bolt screwed almost all the way into the coupler nut when the combination is just the right length to fit between the bearing separator and engine block. Place another bolt\/coupler nut combination between the bearing separator and block on the opposite corner of the first one.<\/p>\n Now use one wrench to keep the bolt from rotating and another wrench to \u201cunscrew\u201d the coupler nut. As you unscrew the coupler nut, the combination becomes longer and pushes the pto clutch off the bearing. Be aware, however, the coupler nut will tend to \u201cwalk\u201d sideways as you unscrew it. You\u2019ll have to push on the wrench as you turn the coupler nut to prevent this. It takes a little time and patience but the process is a very controlled means of removing the pto.<\/span><\/p>\n Now that the PTO is removed, the bearing has to be removed. The bearing is held on by a locking, eccentric collar.<\/span><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n The picture shown is a picture of a flange bearing, but illustrates how the eccentric lock works. Notice in the left picture that the bearing bore has a thin \u201clip\u201d at the bottom and a much thicker lip at the top. Also, notice\u00a0 that for the collar (bottom left of the picture) there\u2019s a thick and thin portion. (The picture on the right is a picture of the back of the bearing and collar. You can tell everything here is centered. The eccentric is only machined on the outer surface on one side of the bearing.)\u00a0\u00a0 The bearing is placed on a shaft and the eccentric portion of the collar is slid over the eccentric portion of the bearing. The thin portion of the collar slides over the thick section of the bearing.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n As the collar is rotated, it wedges the bearing to the shaft. There\u2019s a circular \u201cdepression\u201d in the collar so a punch can be used to rotate it. Simply place the punch in the depression and tap the punch with a hammer to rotate the collar.<\/p>\n Once the collar has been rotated, tighten the setscrew (located in the collar) to hold it in position. Cub Cadet states that to tighten the collar it must be rotated in the direction of engine rotation. So, since the engine rotates in a counterclockwise rotation when viewed from the front of the Cub Cadet, the collar should be rotated in a counterclockwise direction to tighten and a clockwise rotation to loosen.\u00a0\u00a0 To remove the bearing, begin by loosening the setscrew that holds the collar in place. (For some of the older PTO\u2019s, Cub Cadet put a locking nut on the set screw. If it\u2019s there, loosen it first. Later PTO\u2019s didn\u2019t have the locking nut.) If the PTO has never been removed, place a punch in the depression in the collar and use a hammer to rotate the collar in a clockwise direction. It\u2019s generally pretty obvious when it loosens. If the collar has been previously removed, it may have been rotated in the wrong direction when it was replaced. It just takes trial and error to figure out which way it has to be rotated.<\/p>\n After the collar has been removed, the bearing \u201cshould\u201d slide off the end of the shaft. Often the bearing has become stuck on the end of the shaft and won\u2019t just slide off. Sometimes you can remove it by \u201cgently\u201d tapping it with a plastic mallet, but I usually use a small puller to remove them when they\u2019re stuck.<\/p>\n The PTO has been removed!!<\/p>\n \u00a0Removing the Basket Pulley<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\n Sometimes removing the basket pulley can be a bigger challenge then removing the PTO. Once the PTO has been removed, clean the exposed end of the crankshaft. It there\u2019s any rust on the crankshaft, remove it with fine sand paper. Often the crankshaft is just coated with \u201cgunk\u201d. Remove it with paint thinner or carburetor cleaner.<\/p>\n Begin the process by removing the two setscrews that hold the pulley in place.\u00a0 Remove them and squirt PBlaster in the holes.\u00a0 These pulleys tend to become “set” on the crankshaft over time and the PBlaster will help break them loose.\u00a0 After letting the pulley soak for a while, it’s time to remove it.\u00a0 If you pry on the pulley, you\u2019ll bend it. If you tap on the pulley, you\u2019ll bend it. I begin the process by drilling two 5\/16\u201d holes located approximately 2 1\/2 inches apart centered on the crankshaft in the basket pulley. You can drill these holes with the pulley on the engine. Start with a small (maybe 1\/8\u201d) drill to make a pilot hole before drilling the 3\/8\u201d hole.<\/p>\n The picture above is a picture of a pulley that has just been removed. Notice there are two holes, one located on each side of the center bore, and located about 2 \u00bd\u201d inches apart. If I get an engine with the pulley already removed, I always drill these two holes before replacing the pulley. It\u2019s easier to drill the holes on the drill press then with the pulley located on the engine.<\/p>\n Now that you have holes drilled in the pulley, drill two 5\/16\u201d holes 2 \u00bd inches apart in a flat piece of steel. Make a puller by placing the flat piece of steel across the end of the crankshaft and using two 5\/16\u201d bolts that extend through the pulley. You may have to use some washers to make the distance work out correctly.<\/span><\/p>\n Getting the nuts on the bolts where they extend through the pulley gets a little tricky. But, with a little patience and some long nose pliers it can be done. With all narrow frame Cub Cadets that have a starter\/generator, there has to be room behind the basket pulley for clearance of the bolt head that holds the belt adjustment lever in place. That\u2019s enough room to get a nut on the end of the bolt.<\/p>\n When you finish removing the pulley, they\u2019ll be a depression where the 5\/16\u201d nut contacts the back of the pulley. But, I\u2019ve never bent a pulley (never say never!!) and the depression is not noticeable from the front of the pulley or when it\u2019s replaced back on the shaft.<\/p>\n As you remove the pulley, you\u2019ll eventually run out of threads, or the basket pulley will come into contact with the flat piece of steel. I always keep some short pieces of aluminum round to use as spacers on the end of the crankshaft for any pulling that I do.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n