![\"lores_comparison1\"](\"https:\/\/cubcadetman.com\/cc\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/01\/lores_comparison1.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nThe major differences that I see are: \u00a0The WH pump (red pump in above picture) obviously has different fittings for the hydraulic connections. \u00a0The control handle for the WH pump screws into the top of the control instead of the side. \u00a0The Cub Cadet pump has \u00a0a fill plug in the reservoir while the WH pump as a fill plug in the “head” of the pump.<\/p>\n
Apparently, internally, there were two different versions of the WH pumps. \u00a0One,<\/p>\n
was identical to the Cub Cadet pump shown above.<\/p>\n Take special note of the return spring.<\/p>\n The other type pump,<\/p>\n <\/p>\n had major internal differences. \u00a0Take special note of the valve return spring and the configuration of the valve itself. \u00a0Also, it’s not obvious in the picture, \u00a0but the right-hand stub shaft that holds the driven gear, is 1\/2″ diameter. \u00a0In a Cub Cadet pump, that stub shaft is 3\/8″ and the driven gear has a 1\/2″ O.D. by 3\/8″ I.D. bearing in the gear to fit the smaller shaft. \u00a0The Wheel Horse pump contains no bearing.<\/p>\n I found a schematic of a Toro HY-2 pump that appears to be the same as the WH pump.<\/p>\n (Click on the image for a larger view.)<\/p><\/div>\n Notice that the pump appears very similar to the Cub Cadet pump except for the mounting of the spring on the valve and the shape of the spring.<\/p>\n I obtained\u00a0a WH \u00a0pump that had a busted internal spring.<\/p>\n I had planned to use the pump for parts, but managed to find a new spring \u00a0that\u00a0can be ordered from JC\u2019s Farm &Garden Supply. \u00a0It is part number 4837 and their phone number is (219) 299 4708. \u00a0They also carry replacement gears. \u00a0They have\u00a0the replacement spring for the pump like the one used on a Cub Cadet as well, Part No. 5281, \u00a0If you want to order parts from them, just call the number above and leave a message. \u00a0John will call you back. \u00a0Do Not use the JC\u2019s Supply website. \u00a0It belongs to a previous owner and has no connection to the present owner. )<\/p>\n When I received the replacement spring and installed it in my pump, it was too long.<\/p>\n In the picture, the “legs” of the spring are bottomed in the holes they are inserted in and the center of the spring just reaches the top of the valve body. \u00a0That meant the legs had to be shortened the depth of the slot in the valve body. \u00a0I used a depth gage to determine that depth and cut off the appropriate length. (Notice the top roll pin extending out of the bottom of the valve body in the picture above. After the center of the spring is “bottomed out” in the slot, that roll pin is driven back in and holds the spring in position.)<\/p>\n Notice the small pieced still connected to the upper leg in the picture above. \u00a0I left it that way to illustrate how much the leg had to be shortened. \u00a0With the legs shortened I inserted the spring in the valve body.<\/p>\n The shortened spring is inserted in the valve body in the above picture. \u00a0Notice the roll pin has also been driven in to hold the spring in position.<\/p>\n I should also mention that the spring I received from JC’s Farm Supply was also made of just a little larger wire diameter. \u00a0It wasn’t really a problem, but everything did fit snugly.<\/p>\n The other thing that I did was to drill and tap a new hole for mounting a handle since, as mentioned previously, the handle for the WH is located at a different orientation than a Cub Cadet.<\/p>\n Since the valve is made of cast, it was easy to drill and tap. \u00a0As you can see in the pictures below, I drilled and tapped the hole before installing the spring. \u00a0(It’s a 3\/8-16 thread.)<\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n With the new spring installed and a new hole tapped, it was time to install the bearing seals. \u00a0(The seal part numbers are listed in the Cub Cadet article.) \u00a0There’s an oil return hole that I didn’t want to completely cover.<\/p>\n I found that a 7\/16″ socket worked well for driving the seals into place. \u00a0As with the Cub Cadet pump, I used two seals.<\/p>\n It’s a little difficult to see, the there still a little of the oil return hole showing. \u00a0After inserting the shaft, I replaced the cap. \u00a0There’s no seal. \u00a0It’s only necessary to tighten the screws to hole the cap in place.<\/p>\n Replacing the oil reservoir completed the assembly.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n