![\"wink-ii-pic-1\"](\"https:\/\/cubcadetman.com\/cc\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/10\/Wink-II-pic-1.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nIf I had it to do over, I would\u2019ve done one thing differently. I C-clamped the short, narrow frame sections to the wideframe sections to hold everything in alignment before welding. After I got everything welded and tried to install the rear end, the mounting holes were off just a little bit. I just drilled them a little oversize and everything fit. But, if I had it to do over, I would\u2019ve installed the rear end once everything was c-clamped in position so that I could make some final \u201ctweaks\u201d before welding.<\/p>\n Installing the front axle and steering mechanism made Wink mobile so it could be moved in and out of my shop. I installed the 10 hp engine from the original Wink and I was ready to start the transformation. I felt the clutch, drive shaft and brake would be the easier parts of the project so I began with those.<\/p>\n I had removed the clutch from the 128 parts tractor when I purchased it and still had all those parts. The clutch plate and teaser spring needed replacing, but I\u2019ve done several of those and had spare parts on hand. After rebuilding and installing the original clutch, it was just a matter of making an extension that would reach back to the new location of the transmission. Experience had taught me that a drive shaft of that length required some sort of additional support. I bolted a pillow block bearing to a section of flat and bolted the assembly across from side to side in the frame. It took a little time, spacers, and adjustment to get the bearing located so everything was in alignment.<\/p>\n I cut the original brake rod in two and welded each half to a length of \u00bd\u201d rod. Mounting the longer rod completed the brake assembly\u2013 probably the easiest part of the conversion.<\/p>\n With the \u201ceasy\u201d stuff done, I turned my attention to the shift mechanism. I had spent a lot of time thinking about different ideas for an extension and had received an email from a fellow collector suggesting that one of my simpler ideas would probably work. The new gear shift had to allow for movement both forward and backward as well as side to side. The side to side motion was what concerned me most. There couldn\u2019t be any twisting in the mechanism or it wouldn\u2019t shift.<\/p>\n I cut the original gear shift lever off about an inch and a half above the spring. I didn\u2019t want to weld to the shift lever in case I had to disassemble it if any future repairs became necessary. I manufactured a bracket that would clamp securely to the shift lever and not permit any twisting.<\/p>\n The assembled bracket left enough room to install a short section of tubing across the top between the two sides. A \u00bd\u201d rod welded to the tube extended forward to the front shift lever.<\/p>\n With the bracket for the back completed, I turned my attention to the front shift lever. The lever had to pivot forward and backward as well as side to side. After installing all the sheet metal to be certain there was sufficient room, I welded a bolt extending forward from the cross member I had installed to mount the pillow block bearing. Sliding a piece of tubing over this bolt provided a means for the side to side motion. Welding two tabs to the tubing provided a mount for the shift lever and allowed for the forward and backward motion. The extra width of the bottom section of the shifter wasn\u2019t to add strength but was necessary to prevent any twisting motion in the mechanism.<\/p>\n Connecting the back bracket to the front shift lever with the \u00bd\u201d rod completed the job. The new shift lever was 31\u201d forward of the one it replaced. The dog leg in the rod was necessary to allow for clearance under the fender assembly.<\/p>\n I wouldn\u2019t classify the way the mechanism shifts as \u201cgreat\u201d, but it is \u201cvery good.\u201d You can\u2019t speed shift. It just requires a little patience to get the correct feel for the shift. Overall I was very pleased with the results. (Hope my wife feels the same way!!)<\/p>\n Remounting all the sheet metal and completing the wiring allowed me to take a test drive.<\/p>\n The hard part was done. Next it was just a matter of mounting the bed and the second generation Wink would be ready to go. For the original Wink, I had installed two pieces of angle that extended 6 inches behind the Cub Cadet frame to permit a larger bed. It also resulted in a lot better looking, better scaled tractor. I bolted these same two pieces of angle to the new Wink and determined the bed had to be mounted two inches higher to clear the rear shift mechanism. I welded a short section of 2 inch angle to the front of each angle that I\u2019d bolted to the frame for the front of the bed to sit on. It also required an extension to the rear bed mount to raise it the required two inches.<\/p>\n When I mounted the bed to the rear of the new Wink, I had plenty of clearance for the shift mechanism.<\/p>\n Finally it was just a matter of making some covers for the frame where the drive shaft was exposed before I could do any painting. Because of the limited room, I could only install a couple self tapping screws in each cover, but more screws could be added when the tractor was disassembled for painting.<\/p>\n With everything completed it was time to clean and paint Wink and let my wife try out the finished project. Since this was not going to be a \u201cshow\u201d tractor\u201d, I took the easy way out and left most of the tractor assembled for painting. That\u2019s not a good idea if you want a professional looking paint job.<\/p>\n The final project was one of those 15 foot paint jobs, but after a couple weeks of work there will be enough dust and dirt that no one will notice. And, my wife is happy with it and that\u2019s what counts!!<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n